Nice Bombs

Baghdad, Iraq
Sunday
Feb 7, 2004, ...I think. I'm a little out of it. It's almost 7pm.

There were American tanks right here on Al-Mansoor street where we are staying. In fact it was right in front of the internet cafe. Something about a car bomb in this area. I saw a tank moving slowly with soldiers surrounding it. They were searching every car. I pulled out my camera when everyone in my car yelled at me: put it down!! They may think it's a gun and shoot you!!

okay okay.

Yes I know, shooting American troops and vehicles (ahem...with video) is always a risky and slightly stupid act on my part. I aim, start recording and hope they don't mistaken my camera for a gun.

Last night before bed we heard a giant explosion. I went into the living room and asked my cousin what the bomb was, he smiled and said it was a nice bomb.

We hate Bush, we love Bush. That's what I hear. But many of the Iraqis I have met have said some very positive things about the Americans and are very happy and appreciative that they got rid of Saddam. Especially the Shia's. But the US has turned this country upside down. I mean just because Saddam is gone it does not mean that all is well. And in a weird way they are replacing one form of extremism with another...Islam. But not all! okay. There are 25 million people here and I am in Baghdad with a specific view of this area.

We drove to the ancient city of Babel (Babylon) today. We got up to the gate and noticed more troops. There was another car in front of us with a Hungarian reporter. Apparently the troops fired warning shots above their heads to scare them away. Some Iraqis were hanging out near the side of the road warning people to go away. I decided to talk to the troops anyway. So I went alone and waved my hands and said I was an American. They had accents, they were Polish soldiers. After climbing over the barbed wire and slowly moving closer to the gate they aimed and gestured their guns at me, STAY BACK! I told them I was from Chicago where we have a lots of Polish folks, they smiled and laughed a little. It was okay. But nobody was allowed into Babylon. So that's the story, us Iraqis are not allowed into our own ancient city. Ah well. We tried. Driving out of Baghdad I saw several more skeletons of bombed out Iraqis tanks.

I'm a little home sick and all the kerosene, exhaust and chaos is breaking me down a bit. But the food keeps me going for sure...

Today one of my younger cousins said I LOVE BUSH AND I WISH HE WILL TORTURE SADDAM. My other cousin said I THINK BUSH IS STUPID.

We went to the 'Thieves market' the other day after being warned that K would be kidnapped. But we went to the market and we were okay. It was mostly men ( I would sau almost 99 percent men) but still she felt and fine and bought a book that teaches Arabic to English speakers.

In general all the Iraqis we have been meeting have been more then generous and kind. Very friendly and open. We also visited a really sweet American couple, Tyler and Jamie that work for a satellite company. They have been here for almost 8 months, live in a nice big house and have had no problems. Of course they have guns and security. Everyone is armed in Iraq.

K and I have been walking in Al-Mansoor area by ourselves during the day and we feel safe and fine...no problem.

You can buy anything in Baghdad!

We just don't have time to do Basrah to reclaim our old house. Also I am told that that it is very difficult to apply any kind of law here. Because there is barely any law here. I will have to come back and maybe go through Kuwait or something to go to Basrah. It will be part two of this documetary. We want to do many things but we are limited with security and time issues.

Tomorrow I meet Salam Pax...Inshallah...yeah...and maybe Raed? Where is Raed?

You get used to the helicopters flying right above your head every so often.

Almost every family we visit has a horror story about a missile that almost hit them, or one that went through their house...many gruesome details and the evidence of a missile shell, bullet holes, large chunks of their house that has been re-patched. My Uncle's Kamal's wife's sister husband was taking a nap on the couch in his living room when a small American missile blasted through his wall, bumped the side of the opposite wall and bounced back and landed right next to the side of the couch. He woke up in a daze and asked: Is something burning in the Kitchen!? I know it sounds funny but they showed me where it happened, the holes have been sealed but you can see them. And they still have the shell of the missile. The only reason the whole entire neighborhood did not blow up was because the missile did not have it's war head on it when it went through. When I asked him what he remembered about the incident he said he preferred not to talk about it.

Yes we are glad we came and it's really difficult for me to get into all the details right now. But many of my impressions of what this war was all about are changing. The Americans need to be here. Apparently when the first months of occupation/war happened there was more of an exchange and intimacy between the Iraqis and the US troops. But now, with new troops and more US isolation in the Green Zone, and such, there is less interaction and more paranoia. Iraqis are taking care of themselves even with no law or police. They all watch out for one another. Everyone is helpful and I have never felt any animosity or hostility from Iraqis. The only people I fear to shoot (on video!) are the US soldiers. But I do it and sweat...

If I pull out my camera in the streets (depending on where I am) I may have some boys all trying to get in front of the camera. Everyone wants to talk and tell their story and their opinion for my video.

They want freedom and they are SO HAPPY that the US got rid of Saddam. They could care less about weapons of mass destruction. In fact many Iraqis say that Saddam is the weapon of mass destruction. Some Iraqis even say: take the oil! Just give us our country and let us run it.

The Shia's seem to be the most appreciative and very warm and welcoming to us. But I have to admit we are getting a little burned out on eating meat, and sweets and bread and drinking tea so many times and day. I miss many things from the US and I feel ashamed to even mention them.

I've also been having some horrifying nightmares...maybe it's when the jet planes or helicopters pass by it brings back memories from the Iraq and Iran war.

We have about 4 more days here and then we make the long trek back to Amman.

I miss Chicago.

Baghdad is so freaking crowded. Cars are everywhere. Trash is everywhere. But there are some really gorgeous homes and new ones being built daily.

There are many rumors and suspicious talk of politics and what this or that person has or may want to do.

Everyone loves K. On the way back from Babylon we stopped at this small fruit market with many poor-farmer kids and other older farmer-men. And my God, they went crazy over K! Almost 15 kids and people surrounding her. One guy held a white chicken near her face and demanded I take their picture saying in Arabic WHO IS MORE WHITE THIS GIRL OR THE CHICKEN? It was a small mob scene. Everyone wanted to pose with K. It was funny and sweet. We love you! They say.

We love America. Some will say...but they are watching...

Ahhghh. I feel a little grumpy today. I miss our privacy and the fumes from all the various kerosene and cars are slowly killing me. And as Tareef's wife said: then we are all dying.

But the future is happening in front of us. Iraq is changing rapidly. Baghdad, if everything goes okay, will be one of the most amazing cities in the world. The technology here is booming. And the kids are brilliant. I was speaking French, Arabic and English to a 12 year old kid today.

My Father keeps bumping into childhood friends and is almost always in tears when he greets his long lost buddies. I mean I just met my half Uncle that I have never seen in my whole entire life. A large part of who I am is here...and another part I suppose is back in Chicago.

Okay friends. I'm not sure if I will have time to write again in Baghdad. Maybe Amman. I will try...

Love to all of you. And a message to America, the Iraqis thank you, but don't fuck with them.

Allah be with you.

-U