Nice Bombs

Okay, so the fact that Iraqi's are so damn sweet and nice and hospitible offsets any pet peeves I may have. Sometimes I'm a little too hard on this place.

I hit my breaking point when I was told I could not go somewhere because it was "all men." The "Theives' Market" they call it - lots of blackmarket bargains, and one place I thirst to experience. I blew up. In front of family I screamed "It sucks to be a woman here, it really sucks!" And then they calmed me and said, "listen, this isn't normal." It's just because of the lawlessness here. It's just because Saddam let all the prisoners out before he made his exit. Imagine New York City in a black out with no police, and no more punishment for crime, and someone just unlocked the prison gates. Would I, as a female, or as anyone, want to walk around in the streets?

Good point.

Annnnyyyway... Enough about gender issues. I'm over it.

Today we TRIED top go to Babylon. It's now property of the Polish army, so to speak. No one can go in.

On the way back we stopped at a roadside market where I, with my camera, became the center of attention. Hoardes of boys wanted me to photograph them. Then they wanted U. to snap their pictures with their arm locked in mine. It was quite fun. Actually there seems to be a common phenomenon in Baghdad. The moment people see a camera they want to be in front of it. They wave and pose and show off. I've never seen anything like it. In the West you can get punched in the face for snapping someone's pic.

Had a great conversation with Uncle K, the scholar. I explained Wicca (for those who don't know it's a religion which sort of showed up in the 1950s in the West which is earth-centered and polytheistic - my religion) to him. He was excited and delighted that there is a resurgence of the worship of the old gods. He was especially happy to hear that a friend of mine worships Innana. "Very good!" he said "Our mother!" I love this man. He knows so much! He's so hip he doesn't even know it. He is going to publish a paper on Wicca now, all because of our conversation. Have I brought neo-paganism back to where it all began? Perhaps. I'm sending him tons of books when I get back.

We met two Americans who work and live here in Baghdad. Very cool. There experiences are quite different, in that they seem to be carefully guarded by the companies for which they work. They can't go many places. Having family here I'm tossed out into the middle of it all, to swim among the native fishes as if I were the same. But it was quite nice to hear American accents, compare notes, and like, you know, hang out, man... hehe The Iraqi hospitality possesed me and I wanted toinvite them to dinner. But then, it's not my house, and I think it might be rude to have U.'s aunt cook for strangers.

I just lost my important thought... I know I had one... oh well...

I think being a child of an educated Iraqi family must be the best childhood ever. So much value on family, so much nurturing... No privacy of course, but still... food and children seem to be the reason for living here... which makes being a kid pretty cool. Iraqi kids are the most well-mannered children ever!

More Masgouf today. I watched the fish go from floppin' to grillin'at the roadside b.b.q. Fresher than fresh. So fresh it wasn't quite dead when they gutted it.

Umm ummm ummmmmm... Everything is a blur since last I wrote. Copper market... driving, eating, tea, driving, eating, driving, eating, tea...

Trying to explain the value of hip hop to one of my favorite cousins... Seeing the new Madonna video which would never dare air in the US (it is SUPER critical of America)...

And I'm happy to announce that yes, Red Bull is sold EVERYWHERE!!!! There is no corner of the civilized world which is not graced by it's addictive form of tart energy. Also, the grapefruits are sour like lemons and the lemons are sweet. The grapefruit took me by surprise one morning, to the amusement of ther relatives.

Home sick... yes... for toilet paper, and superfoods, and breathing air (instead of car exhaust and cerosine), and my rats, and the absense of social activity. I'm a loner. This is the biggest part of the culture shock. Iraqi's do not know the meaning of lonliness or isolation. For an introvert like me, it's quite a challenge.

I'm spoiled.

You know what I remembered my important thought. Here it is: I love America. We have the luxury of taking things for granted. Maybe I love Holland more than America, but damn it, my country is fucking awesome. I will always be critical of it's politics, and of the often shallow nature of Capitalism, but Americans - you don't even know how good you have it. Use it! Fucking use your freedom damn it! It's valuable.

Lots more. In ten years this place will be very different. I'm glad I've had the chance to see it in transition, so to speak. From being comparably untouched by Western values, to being a thriving international center of commerce. I feel it will happen, and in a big way. For better, and sometimes for worse. One thing I do notice is that postmodern thought has yet to make itself known here. At least among the people with whom I have had in-depth discussions. Consumable fast food versions of postmodernism proliferate where I come from, and I feel it's absense.

Okay, now I have to go and win a bet. Cousin T. says the eighties tune "Don't you want me baby" is a duet with David Bowie. HA! He is about to lose the wager when I print out the lyrics and the band's name... if I can only remember the name of the band...

She was working as a waitress in a blah blah blah...

K

P.S. forgive my spelling and typos. I simply don't care.

P.P.S. Pet peeve # 206: cigarette smoking in internet cafes. I need air!!!